Parmigiano Reggiano:  it’s the king of cheeses.  It has ancient origins and its characteristics have not changed over centuries, it has one of cheese’s longest documented histories.  In the 12th Century in Parma and Reggio Emilia Benedictine monks were already known for their production of hard cheeses.  The first written mention of a “formaggio di forma parmigiano” is in 1344 and in that same year Boccaccio describes a mountain made of grated parmigiano in one of his stories.  By the 18th Century there were around thirty dairies producing the cheese, today there are some 350 Parmigiano Reggiano producers.  Parmigiano Reggiano is made under very strict standards using the milk of cows raised under equally strict standards – hence the quality of Parmigiano is very consistent, always aiming for perfection in texture and taste.  The only flexibility allowed is in aging.  To be considered Parmigiano Reggiano it must be aged a minimum of 12 months and labels can have only have the designations of 18, 22 and 30 months.  A comparison tasting of these variously aged chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano (even better if you do it in Parma…) is really like being in heaven – you totally understand why it’s called il re dei formaggi!

As a reader of mystery books and Italian gialli I have great affection for Andrea Camilleri’s Inspector Montalbano.  But coming in a close second is Vicequestore Rocco Schiavone, the protagonist of a series written by Antonio Manzini.  He’s bad-tempered and dour, dabbles in some illegal activities but is a good investigator.  He’s imperfect and intelligent.  He’s from Rome but has been posted to Aosta as punishment for taking the law into his own hands and beating up the criminal son of a well-connected person.  He hates everything in Aosta, the cold, the mountains and the ugly snow boots everyone wears.  He smokes weed in his office.  He has lovers but is in love with and has long conversations with his wife – who is dead.  The stories are gritty and tightly written, often a commentary on contemporary society.  They’ve also been adapted into a highly watchable and atmospheric TV series starring Marco Giallini who inhabits the role of Schiavone perfectly.

There are two things which mark the pre-Lenten days of Carnevale:  masks and sweets specific to this time of year.  These dolci are part of the climate of excess and partying that precedes the period of abstinence and repentance of Lent. Recipes tend to be from the popular tradition, that is, fairly simple with easily available and cheap ingredients.  While there are a few sweets that are baked, such as the Tuscan schiacciata – a (usually) white cake, often orange-scented – fried dolci are really the symbol of this time of year.  Every region has variations on this theme, from Alto Adige to Sicily.   Throughout the country, similar sweets have different names.  The two most common styles are rectangular-shaped dough that is fried and dusted with powdered sugar (frappe, chiacchiere, bugie, crostoli) and balls of dough, sometimes filled, that are then fried (castagnole.)  Sounds dull, but when they’re good, they’re very, very good and worth every caloric bite!